Don't Discard Seafood Roe: Turn Them Into a Luxury Butter – Recipe
Outside the breathtaking beaches and wild coastline, Jersey features a exceptional food tradition, firmly grounded in its land and sea. From internationally renowned local baby potatoes to scallops sweeter and more tender than those tasted elsewhere, the island's bounty is second to none. The thing that thrills many most, though, is the way local producers and producers are embracing sustainable farming, and in doing so reimagining their culinary destiny with creativity and dedication.
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege to host a discussion at an inspiring event, and cook a welcoming dinner for the speakers, together with a inspiring organizer. Of course, scallops were a must on my menu, because they represent Jersey at its best: subtle, plump and bursting of the sea.
Scallops appear as the ultimate embodiment of the island's culinary evolution: succulent, plump and restorative by nature, purifying and cleaning the water while contributing to build shoreline habitats. Both farmed and, importantly, diver-caught, they are one of the eco-friendliest proteins we can eat. Yet many, those were raised on the island, don't eat the roes – an often-seen affliction, unfortunately. Even more reason to champion those rosy morsels, that are far too delicious to discard. Blended into butter, they turn into sheer indulgence: melt over the shellfish, stir into risotto or just spread on toasted slices.
Scallops can be a little expensive, though, so I have created the following method to turn just one scallop into an impressive starter (or three into a satiating entree) and, by blending their roe into smoked spice spread and roasting the scallops in the half-shells with cherry tomatoes and crushed garlic, unused parts becomes a delicacy.
This ethos of reinvention is central to this approach, that has launched an award offering support to food pioneers with brand support, guidance and entry to a retail platform. Evaluated by a panel of respected culinary heroes, the award is to be awarded during an upcoming event. It's focused on supporting ideas that will help the agricultural networks thrive, from soil to sea, and there's no better an inspiring location for that conversation to begin than Jersey.
Scallops Roasted in Roe Butter with Cherry Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Yields six as a starter or two as a main course
Six with eggs shellfish in the half-shell
18 small tomatoes, cut in half
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
3 fresh chili peppers (eg jalapeño), halved lengthwise, or 1 dash chilli flakes, or to taste (if desired)
50g unsalted butter
1 tsp paprika
Sea salt and black pepper, to liking
Lemon wedges, to accompany
Some samphire, agretti or six tiny gherkin slices, to decorate (if using)
Prepare the scallops, detaching the roe from every and keeping the remaining part of the shellfish attached to the shell (ask your seafood supplier to do this for you, if need be). Put 6 halved tomatoes in every shell with a clove's worth of smashed garlic cloves and one half a chili pepper, if added.
Put the eggs in a container of an immersion blender (I find it's the most effective tool for mixing small amounts), add the butter and spice, and blend until creamy. Divide the butter between the half-shells, making sure every scallop is well coated in the butter.
Heat the broiler until it is scorching hot, then put the shellfish beneath the heat for six to eight minutes, until charred and sizzling. Serve immediately, topped with optional samphire, agretti, a slice of pickle and/or a drizzle of the pickle juice or a bit of lemon juice.