The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.
A chance encounter during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's electric 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.
"It was the zenith of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that spontaneity."
While Enninful may seem wistful, he is in good company. Lately, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has grown intense. However over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a significant change. "In my view, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s worldwide."
A Perceived Regression
This regression is difficult to overlook: the growth of far-right politics, the backlash against progressive values, and the return of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the Blair era, currently a different political personality stands as a potential leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of national pride, has sparked debate once more.
In Enninful's view, the response has consistently been to promote culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of prominent faces from literature.
"Individuals with a platform should wield it," he says, explaining those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain was not a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this moment will fade."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He takes comfort in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."
The beginnings of his career would forge a pioneering career characterised by boldness and representation. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Critically, sales grew.
"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.
Launching a Creative Venture
He has recently launched his creative company EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since leaving his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "disruptor".
"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a sense of being on the inside and the outside."
Defying the popular image of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and radiates serenity. His path has included its share of adversity, including publicly shared battles with mental health and substance use.
He has also endured significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I endured such a dark place for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."
Curating a Cultural Era
This drive to be typecast has inspired him beyond the realm that established him. He is now putting together a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who lacked a spotlight at the time.
"The establishment didn't always shine a light on the right artists because they weren't of the traditional credentials," he states.
The magazine 72 itself uses a different business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a broader vision."
An Unstoppable Drive
Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.
What would the Edward of the 90s think of the his current self? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be proud. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We fled, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."
